Shoulder Girdle Strength And Finger Flexor Strength In Prediction Of Performance In Female Rock Climbers
Vol.10,No.2(2016)
The aim of this study was to evaluate the relationship between the rock-climbing performance and the strength of finger flexors and shoulder girdle muscles in female rock climbers. Twenty-one female climbers completed six specific climbing tests focused on finger flexor and shoulder girdle muscles strength: finger hang, maximal strength in open crimp, bent arm hang on one arm, bent arm hang on two arms, diagonal reach, power slap. The relationship to the climbing performance RP (Red point) was assessed by a coefficient of determination. Linear regression analysis was used to determine the relative contribution of the test’s strength in the model. Results. Diagonal reach (R2 = 0.76), power slap (0.74) and finger hang (0.72) explained the greatest part of climber’s performance variability. The test diagonal reach showed high consistency (intra-class correlation coefficient, left 0.98; right 0.97). The greatest relative strength in the regression linear model was power slap. Conclusion. This study introduced a new specific climbing test diagonal reach. It was found that this test has a high reliability and criterion validity and is to assess static shoulder girdle strength in rock climbers. It was shown that shoulder girdle strength is an important factor for achieving high performance in female rock climbers.
rock climbing; shoulder girdle strength; finger flexor strength; specific tests
46–54
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