Relation Between Selected Conditioning Tests And A Performance In Sport Climbing
Vol.5,No.1(2011)
Sport climbing is now seen as part of the fitness interests of the climbing population. This study clarifies the relationship between selected conditioning tests, anamnetic data and performance in sport climbing using OS or RP routes and the relationship between these ways of ascent climbing. The study describes the relationship between the different standardised tests selected from Eurofit test set (standing long jump, full forward trunk bend, pull-up hold, manual dynamometry and flamingo exercise), anthropometric data (body height, body weight, body fat ratio in %) and anamnestic data (length of climbing experience, climbing performance in terms Red Point RP, and On sight OS). The dependency measure is expressed by a linear regression with two dependent variables. The dependent variables express climbing performance in terms of RP and OS. The significant indicators for dependent variable RP in this given regressive model are length of climbing experience, pull-up hold, manual dynamometry and body weight. For the dependent variable OS, these are length of climbing experience, pull-up hold and manual dynamometry. After the application of a linear regression analysis with two dependent variables, the dependency measure between the RP and OS performance was formulated as a partial correlation rp = 0,745.
sport climbing; Eurofit tests; regression with two dependent variables
BALÁŠ, J. Možnost ovlivnění vybraných složek tělesné zdatnosti u dětí mladšího a staršího školního věku v krátkodobých a dlouhodobých programech lezení. Praha, 2007. 141 s. Disertační práce na UK FTVS v Praze. Vedoucí disertační práce Václav Bunc.
BINNEY, D. M. Identifi ciation of charakteristics leading to high performance in sport competitive. In Training in sport climbing, BMC, Plasy: Brenin, 2000.
BINNEY, D. M., COCHRANE, T. A reliable and valid strength measurment of the crimp grip in rock climbing. IN 2nd International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering, University of Leeds, 2002a, s. 28.
BINNEY, D. M., COCHRANE, T. Competitive rock climbing: Psysiological and anthropometric attributes. IN 2nd International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering, University of Leeds, 2002c. s. 3.
BOSCHKER, M. S. J., BAKKER, C., MICHAELS, C. F. Sport Climbing: Perceiving nested aff ordances. In HOSEK, V., TILINGER, P., BÍLEK, L. (edit.) 10th European congress of sport psychology, Prague 1999, Psychology of sport and exercise: enhancing the quality of life. Proceedings part one, Prague, 1999, s. 122-124.
Eurofi t Council-of-Europe. European test of physical fi tness. Rome: Epigraf Editorile Grafi ca, 1988.
FETZ, F., NACHBAUER, W., BURTSCHER, M. Zum speziellen sportmotorischen Eigenschaft profi l von Sportklettern. In Berg 86, Alpenvereinsjahrbuch, München: Bd, 1986. s. 100, s. 245-255.
GRANT, S., et al. A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and fl exibility charakteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers. Th e Journal of Sport Sciences, 2001, vol. 19, no. 7, s. 499-505. https://doi.org/10.1080/026404101750238953
GRANT, S., HYNES, V. Antropometric, strength, endurance and fl exibility of elite and recreational climbers. Journal of Sports Sciences, 1996, vol. 14, no. 4, s. 301-309. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640419608727715
HEBÁK, P., HUSTOPECKÝ, J. Vícerozměrné statistické metody s aplikacemi. Praha: SPN, 1987. 456 s. ISBN 04-323-87.
KÖSTERMEYER, G. Principles of climbing – a review of climbing technique. In 2nd International Conference on Science and Technology in Climbing and Mountaineering, University of Leeds, 2002, s. 15.
KÖSTERMEYER, G. Strength and endurance training for rock climbing In Training in sport climbing, BMC, Plasy Brenin, 2000.
MELOUN, M., MILITKÝ, J. Kompendium statistického zpracování dat – metody a řešené úlohy. Praha: Academia, 2002. 764 s. ISBN 80-200-1008-4.
MERMIER, CH. M. Energy expenditure and physiological response during indoor rock climbing. British Journal of Sport Medicine, 1997, vol. 31, s. 224-228. https://doi.org/10.1136/bjsm.31.3.224
MERMIER, CH. M. Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. British Journal of Sport Medicin, 2000, vol. 34, s. 359-366. https://doi.org/10.1136/bjsm.34.5.359
NACHBAUER, W. Étude sur les Caractéristiques motrices spécifi ques des grimpeurs de haut niveau In
DUPUY, CH. Actes du Colloque, E.N.S.A Chamonix 1989, Jean-Mermoz: Éditions Actio, 1991, s. 192-196. ISBN 2-906411-05-1.
VOMÁČKO, L., BOŠTÍKOVÁ, S. Lezení na umělých stěnách. 2. vyd. Praha: Grada, 2008. 129 s. ISBN 978-80-247-2174-3.
WALL, C. B., et al. Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers. Journal of Strenght and Condition Research, 2004, vol. 18, no. 1, s. 77-83.
WATTS, P. B., et al. Anthropometric profi les of elite male and female competitive sport rock climbers. Journal of Sport Sciences, 1993, vol. 11, s. 113-117. https://doi.org/10.1080/02640419308729974
ZAŤKO, J. Faktory určujúce športový výkon v skalolezení a zameranie športovej prípravy v horolezectve a skalolezení. Bratislava: 1985. 78 s. Kandidátská disertační práce na FTVŠ Univerzity Komenského v Bratislavě. Vedoucí kandidátské disertační práce Julius Žižkay.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
Copyright © 2017 Studia sportiva